September 2015 BOM - 2 Fer block!

Hi everyone,

For those who don't know me, I've been a bit quiet around here lately, but JM needed a BOM for this month, and I was happy to step back up to the plate, so to speak!

I'm calling this month's BOM the 2 Fer block, because depending on the layout you use, you can achieve a combination of 3 different looks....but I only physically sewed two of them!!!  These blocks end up 9 & 1/2" unfinished (ie before you put them into the quilt).  Whilst there's 3 possible layouts, for the SEPTEMBER 2015 BOM, please use the one on the right in the pic below.

The following pic is the layout for the third option, but this wasn't sewn!

To achieve this look, I just turned each of the outer squares around to face the opposite way....which could also be done for this months BOM.

Now, before I carry on with the tutorial, JM has asked that this month we make red and white, OR  blue and white OR red, white and blue, which should be able to help out with a lot of different football team combo's that have been coming in thick and fast of late *grins*

I'm showing you how to cut for a 3 colour block, but if you don't want the third colour in the centre, then just cut 1 extra white (in the case of the tutorial examples) square.

YOU WILL NEED TO CUT:

 Sorry if my pic above shows the 5th white square, I forgot to take it out before I snapped away and when I realised, I'd already sewn the blocks up haha

1 x 3 & 1/2" Centre square - can match the outer square colour or can be a contrasting colour.

 Four 2" x 3 & 1/2" rectangles in Colour 1 and also in Colour 2

 Four (or five) 3 & 1/2" white squares in Colour 1

 Four 3" squares in Colour 2

Now, set aside the rest of the cut pieces, and just take the four 3" Colour 2 squares, we're going to be marking on the back of these now.

 Using whichever form of marking pen you prefer, align the edge of your ruler from

 This shows you the line just made, and on the top right, you can see what we'll be doing to each of these 4 squares.

 Now, place the 1/2" mark on the ruler, over the line you just drew, so that you can make another line 1/2" away.

 Once you're happy with the ruler being in the right position, with the 1/2" mark over the previous line, draw the 2nd line on the back of the square.

 This is what you should now have...the lines you've just drawn, are your SEWING lines, so you will actually be sewing on both of these lines, not a 1/4" away from them.

 Now place the right sides together of a Colour 1 square and a Colour 2 square as shown in the pic....if using a tone on tone fabric like the white in my example, please take extra time to ensure your toned fabric is right side up, to avoid having to unpick (Been there done that several times in the past, but I think I've finally learnt to triple/double check now!)

 I chain piece my blocks whenever possible....sewing on the drawn lines is a perfect time to do this.....I chose to sew on the middle diagonal line first, then I could remove my pins (sorry forgot to take a pic of that), then I turn the chained pieces around and sew back down the opposite direction on the other line.

 Separate the units, so that you can trim them.  I prefer to use my ruler and cutter, but they can be done with scissors if you can cut straight!  Cut either half way between the two sewn lines if using scissors, or using a ruler and cutter, align the 1/4" mark with one of the sewn lines and cut along that line.

 This will result in the above two units.....the one on the left is what I call a bonus 1/2 square triangle, and can be used in borders, trims, other blocks etc, so don't waste that fabric, and set those aside for a rainy day!  Press the seams to the darker side.

 Take your two piles of rectangles and sew a Colour 1 to a Colour 2, right sides together, until all 4 are sewn.

Make sure to sew a 1/4" seam, and press the seams to the darker fabric.

 Layout your units now into whichever you prefer, but this months actual block is the above pic, which is kind of a floating churn dash.  Above is Layout #1

 Alternate layout #2

Alternate layout #3

 Once laid out as shown, you will flip the units in the right column over the middle column

 This is best shown in the above pic....carefully carry the pieces to your machine, and either pin them, or as I do, align them on the fly at the machine.  MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE ORIENTATION OF THE PIECES CORRECT (remember, pinning helps with that!) sew a 1/4" seam allowance down the RIGHT hand side of each unit.

 I don't press the seams I just sewed yet...instead, I take them back to the rest of the block and line them back up so you can make sure everything has been sewn correctly...as shown in above and below pics.

 Now, take the left hand column, and flip those units over the other units as shown above.  Now you're going to sew down those seams, again using a 1/4" seam allowance.

 Now your block should be starting to resemble the completed block...only two more seams to sew and you'll be done and can pat yourself on the back.

 First though, we're going to be pressing all the seams we've just sewn.  I've pointed my finger in the direction that you're going to want to press the seams, but basically so long as you alternate the direction in each row, you'll be able to nestle the intersecting seams when you sew the three rows together.

 So the middle row will go the opposite direction to the first row.

 Bottom row is done the same direction as the top row.

 Shows the different layout and how it's pressed in exactly the same manner.

 I flipped the rows over in these two pics (above and below this text) to better show you how the seams should look once pressed.

 Now, flip the top row down over the middle row, take it to your machine and nestling the two intersecting seams, align the start and finish ends of the seam, and pin (again - I didn't take a pic of my blocks pinned - I need to do more tutorials so I remember to take pics of that), now sew 1/4" seam allowance down the full length of the pinned seam.

 Your block is almost complete, one more seam and final pressing and woo hoo, it's getting a bit exciting now isn't it? lol

 Flip the bottom row up so you can attach it to the other unit.

 I choose to press my final two seams away from the centre square, but feel free to press them open if you prefer that.

 Shows the seams all pressed on the other layout.

Once again, shows both the layouts that I sewed, side by side (which I think would make an interesting looking quilt don't you?  Normally you would trim your blocks now, which just FYI, these blocks make a 9 & 1/2" block as shown, which will end up being 9" in a quilt.  In the case of the BOM, don't trim the blocks, as this will allow them to be trimmed to which ever size is needed for the quilts...I won't confuse you by putting them in here though.

Make as many as you like or even just two.  Just don't forget to make them in combo's of red & white, blue & white or red, white & blue (Ooooh that rhymes!)

 

Send your finished BOM's to

CAROLINE GUNN

PO BOX 3079

ST MARYS SOUTH  NSW  2760

Happy Stitching

Until next time, stay safe and happy

Hugs

Naomi

PDF version of this tutorial can be found, by clicking HERE

September 2013 BOM Easy 4 Patch

Aussie Heroes BOM

September 2013

Easy 4 Patch

By Naomi Vela

As always, before you start, please check your ¼” seam allowance.

Cut 2 x 9 & ½” squares of co-ordinating fabrics

I swear by Pilot frixion pens for marking my quilting projects (see note at the bottom), but using whatever you use for marking sewing lines on your projects, you are going to mark a line halfway along your block from side to side.  This line will be at the 4 ¾” mark, which is half of 9 ½”. (please ignore the ruler placement on the block pictured below as it was one of the test blocks I did)

Once you have marked your block, take both blocks and align them one on top of each other as shown.  Make sure they’re aligned properly.  Directional prints are not really suited for this block.

Take them to the sewing machine, and align your ¼” foot ON the line you marked.  Sew either side of the line, a ¼” away, as shown.

When you’ve done that, your stitching should look similar to mine in the following photo.  It may be a little hard to see, because I used thread that matched the fabric.

Now you’re going to cut each of the blocks in half along the line you drew....ie a ¼” away from the seams you just sewed.

Once you have the two separate units, place them on your ironing board with the darker side up, press the seams to the dark side (hee hee).

As you’ll now have two identical units, you will turn them right sides facing, and you can now ‘nestle’ the seams...when done correctly, you will be able to feel all along the seam and it will feel flat....no ridges or bumps along the stitch line.

Once again, mark the halfway line down the centre (vertical) of the upper block, perpendicular to the seam.

As it doesn’t show up too well in the above pic, please see the one below, where my pen points out the line I drew.

Sew ¼” either side of this line, ensuring your seams on the underside don’t flip over.  Cut on the line again, to produce two separate units.

Now you’re going to unpick two or three stitches in the seam allowance at the centre of the block....as shown below.

Once you’ve done this, open the block out and swirl the centre seam so that it resembles a mini 4 patch.

(Yes I know, I know, my nails need refilling....badly!)

Press the seams so they all go around in the one direction, either clockwise or anti clockwise depending on which of the units you’ve just sewn

By nestling the seams the way we did, your centre seams should all line up really well.

Now we will trim the blocks (only if you have a rotary cutter and ruler though please) to measure 8 ½”  To trim your block so it’s square, put your ruler on the block, aligning the 4 ¼” point on the centre intersection of the block and cut along that side, unless you are using a square, in which case you would cut along the side and top before spinning the block to cut the other side.  If you don’t have a rotary cutter and ruler, then please just send the block to Jan-Maree and she will get them trimmed at her end.  Please excuse the fabric change here, but all the blocks used in the tutorial pics, were made using the same method.

 Once you have trimmed any fabric off the right and top sides of your ruler/square, then you will rotate the block and align the freshly trimmed edges on the 8 & 1/2" lines on your ruler/square and again trim off the excess fabric on the right and top sides.

Once you have done that, your block will be a perfect 8 & 1/2" block, with the centres all lined up.

I got 12 blocks out of 3 fq’s, and I mixed and matched them up to make unique coloured blocks.

Send completed blocks to Jan-Maree and she has asked for Aussie-ish colours, so think rusts, browns, greens, golds etc

Mailing address:

Aussie Hero Quilts

PO Box 248

Cherrybrook NSW 2126

NOTE: I am not sponsored by Pilot at all (pity though) and I purchase my pens at Coles or Woolworths/Safeways.  They are about $3 each and can be purchased in several colours.  The reason I use them, is because they are heat sensitive, and the lines/marks magically disappear when exposed to the heat of an iron.

A pdf copy of this tutorial can be obtained by clicking HERE

Any mistakes, confusing parts, please email Naomi here

EDITED: 5th September 2013 to re-link to the edited pdf version with correct pics.  Thanks to Sue N for emailing me to let me know that the pdf wasn't correct.

Till next time.................keep spreading the word and happy stitching!